CHEF (9 OF 10) – Written and Directed by Jon Favreau; starring Jon Favreau, John Leguizamo, Bobby Cannavale, Emjay Anthony, Dustin Hoffman, Sofía Vergara, Oliver Platt, Robert Downey Jr, Scarlett Johansson. Rated R for language and adult themes. In limited release, expanding to more cities soon; running time: 115 minutes.
“Chef” is a beautiful ode to the creative process and artistry of all kinds, with a unique commentary on our modern era of social media and internet criticism. It’s one of Favreau’s best films, which is saying a lot considering he also basically invented the Marvel Cinematic Universe, made a modern classic holiday film in “Elf” and was on the forefront of independent fillmmaking (along with guys like Richard Linklater and Kevin Smith) with “Swingers.”
“Chef” is the story of Chef Carl Casper (Favreau), once one of Miami’s hottest, groundbreaking chefs. Now he finds himself in a comfortable rut, cooking the same meals at Riva’s (Dustin Hoffman) restaurant in Los Angeles along with his best friend and assistant Martin (John Leguizamo), sous chef Tony (Bobby Canavale), and manager Molly (Scarlett Johansson). Because of his workaholic ways and general ennui, he finds himself somewhat estranged from his son Percy and ex-wife Inez (Sofia Vergara).
But today is a big, important day, as LA’s hottest food critic, Ramsey Michel (Oliver Platt), is coming to the restaurant. Obsessed with trying something new to excite the critic, Casper pores over the best and freshest at the Farmer’s Market. Upon returning the restaurant, owner Riva yanks Casper’s chain, telling him to cook the normal menu and not to experiment. Casper relents because his job is at stake, and because of this receives a scathing review for being boring, needy, and cloying.
The review quickly goes viral, and ironically, the restaurant has never been busier. Despite this, Casper discovers social media and what others are saying about the review, leading him into a flame war with Michel, a very public meltdown, and ultimately him losing his job.
He starts over with a food truck in his hometown of Miami, and attempts to take a nationwide road trip to take the food world by storm. Named “El Jefe” (The Boss), the truck serves Cuban sandwiches, fried plantains, and, well. . . whatever Chef Casper wants it to. He is, after all, El Jefe. Meanwhile, his 10 yr old son Percy, along for the ride, promotes the truck on social media, helping drive a crowd to them wherever they go.
While this is 75% of the plot, this is hardly a spoiler, as what is truly scrumptuous about this movie is the journey, not the destination. And the food. Oh! The food!
One word of warning– do not go to this movie hungry. If you do, you will leave starving, and furiously checking Yelp for the closest open restaurant or food truck serving down home good food. The term “food porn” gets thrown around a lot these days, but there is some serious food porn in this film. From seeing an amazing crust being built on a tender steak or the golden-brown goodness of perfectly toasted bread to perfectly fried and powdered beignets to Texas barbecue done right (and a cameo at legendary Austin barbecue joint “Franklin’s” featuring the man, Aaron Franklin, himself), the food is half the reason to see the film. And in a romantic moment between Chef Casper and Molly, instead he offers to cook for her, you feel almost as dirty watching him assemble an amazing pasta for her as you would a gratuitous sex scene.
Along with the food, the cities along the way each add their own unique flavor. Miami, New Orleans, Austin, and Los Angeles each offer their own spice to the mix, and it’s beautiful. Authentic touches really help sell it, as Chef Casper tells his son that “Bourbon street is for tourists” and that’s why they’re in the real French Quarter. And when the El Jefe food truck parks across the street from a Gary Clark Jr concert in Austin, it’s obvious that Favreau is a master of his craft, the same way Casper in his film is.
Favreau also obviously has some foodie bona fides. As the creator and longtime host of “Dinner for Five,” he obviously loves great food and pairing it with real conversation. And the scenes of him doing actual knifework and cooking show he’s got some chops. Stick around during the credits as we see Favreau getting schooled by LA food truck legend Roy Choi.
But what speaks the loudest through this is the story. For anyone with an artistic impulse who feels the pressure to “sell out” rather than do what you want, Chef is a movie for you. Anyone who feels unappreciated at work, but can’t escape workaholism, Chef is for you. And anyone who understands what happened to Favreau around the making of “Iron Man 2” and his eventual ouster from the franchise and going to make “Cowboys and Aliens,” this movie is especially for you.
I also feel like we got to see a lot of Favreau’s therapy played out on screen. I wonder how many conversations with studio executives and guys in suits Favs had that were like his conversations with Riva on screen. Do what’s safe. Do what’s going to make me the most money. You work for me, you have to do what I say. And so you put out what is undoubtedly a great product, (Iron Man 2, Cowboys and Aliens) but just not what you know your best was, and one which critics and fans reacted negatively against on social media.
“Chef” is a giant middle finger to all the “haters,” in that sense. And it’s so delicious. When Chef Casper skewers Michel for his “criticism” and puts down just how little he actually knows about cooking, it’s like he’s saying it the swarms of internet critics who ripped his films apart while not understanding the art of film at all.
That being said (and I feel like Favreau is daring anyone to criticize his movies!) I have a couple of tiny complaints with the film. The film magically skips over the road trip after Austin and suddenly we’re back in California after a quick travel montage (because, I guess f@#$ the rest of Texas, New Mexico, and Arizona? Yeah, on second thought– great idea! We didn’t need a scene of the El Jefe in Yuma, Tucson or El Paso/Las Cruces, did we?) And the ending was maybe a little bit too pat and perfect. But, again, if the film about the journey, not the destination, that’s barely a complaint. Regardless, this is nearly a perfect film and one which speaks to the inner parts of my soul.
For the geeky crowd who is lucky enough to have “Chef” playing in a theater near you, it’s a better film for geeks than even “X-Men, Days of Future Past” if you pick up on the subtext. For lovers of geek, for lovers of food, for lovers of good film and radical self-respect, treat yourself to “Chef.” Just don’t go in hungry, or have dinner reservations lined up for right afterwards, or go check it out at a theater that also serves great food. (For example, I will be treating myself to seeing this again at the Alamo Drafthouse in a couple of weeks with a menu based on food from the film. Yum!)
Bon appetit
9 out of 10